This summer breeze crochet triangle shawl is versatile enough to wear at the beach while relaxing or over your shoulders in a beautiful evening gown in the evening. Use one skein of yarn to make this light and lacy shawl.
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Easy Beginner Crochet Shawl Pattern
This shawl uses a combination of double crochet rows and double crochet with chain stitches. It is worked from the top down with the stitches increasing with each row.
Making a shawl is a great way to use a yarn cake. It is fun to see what color comes next as I crochet a piece with yarn that has various colors throughout. When the yarn changes color with this fingering type yarn, it changes one thread at a time. So delicate and pretty; when paired with simple crochet stitches the results are exquisite.
Another bonus to using a yarn cake that has a gradient yarn color is the two yarn ends to be weaved in. Since the colors are chosen for you, all you do is keep crocheting. Not having to change yarn colors also means less yarn ends to weave in.
What do you Call a Yarn that Changes Color?
Gradient is the term that is most often used for yarn that gradually changes color from lighter shades to darker or vice-versa. Gradient yarns can gradually change color one strand at a time, or each strand can be colored the same with the colors throughout the skein of yarn changing as you work through the yarn.
Other terms that I have heard used to describe yarn that changes color are self-striping yarn, ombre yarn, and variegated yarn.
Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern Using Fingering Yarn
Sometimes using a fine yarn can be a bit intimidating and making a lacy crochet project might seem out of your reach. I am here to tell you that it is easier than you may think.
I too was a bit apprehensive about using a fingering yarn. However, I fell in love with the color schemes and bought a handful of skeins on sale. When ever I would look through my yarn and plan my next project, I would take them out and look at their beauty just to put them back again. Finally, I made my first shawl and once I got started using this lighter weight yarn, I fell in love with it. This “Beginner Shawl” pattern was the first one I made with fingering yarn.
Sometimes it is just nice to see the pattern being worked. For those of you that learn better from a video, I have that for you. The first seven rows will be worked with a bit thicker yarn to help show the stitches. After this section on the video, I also show this shawl being worked with the fingering yarn.
If you are a beginner at crochet and may have only crocheted a square or blanket, I recommend that you check out the video tutorial to help with understanding how to work this pattern. You can find the video after the written pattern.
Directions: Summer Breeze Crochet Triangle Shawl
Gauge is not critical to this crochet pattern. I had 25 stitches to 4 inches
The shawl measures 79 inches at the widest point and 28 ½ inches long in the center from the middle tip to the starting point.
Cotton Kings Twirls yarn cake color number 10 from Hobbi. It is a number 2 fine fingering yarn. I used most of the 874 yards of the yarn in the skein. If you are not able to find this yarn, you can find it here. However, any fingering yarn with that yardage would work. Red Heart It’s a Wrap yarn would work nice for this crochet pattern.
Crochet Hook Size E
CH = Chain Stitch
DC = Double Crochet
SC = Single Crochet
SK = Skip
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SP = Space
ST = Stitch
STs = Stitches
[ ] = Repeat Between
Summer Breeze Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern Notes
The first chain 3 of each row counts as a double crochet.
Double crochet stitches are worked around the chain stitches rather than inserting the hook in through the loops.
The last stitches of the row are made in the third chain (top chain) of the previous row initial chain 3.
I will have the stitch counts for the rows; however, if you decide to make this shawl larger here are the increases. Each double crochet and chain stitch row increased by 4 stitches. Each double crochet row increases by 6 stitches.
Crochet Pattern Directions
Ch 4, SL ST into the first ST to make a circle. (If you prefer, you could start with a magic circle; however, I generally start my shawls with the chain 4 method as I have outlined because I think it provides a bit more security that the yarn will not break).
CH 3 (Counts as DC). 3 DC in the ring, CH 2, 4 DC in the ring. Turn (8 DC, 2 CH SP)
Ch 3 (Counts as DC). 2 DC in the same ST. DC in the next 3 STs. In the previous row CH 2 SP work (DC, CH 1, DC). DC in the next 3 STs. 3 DC in the last ST. Turn (14 DC, 1 CH SP)
CH 3 (Counts as DC). 2 DC in the same ST. DC in each ST across until you reach the previous row CH 1 SP. Work (DC, CH 1, DC) in the CH 1 SP. Continue working 1 DC in each ST across ending with 3 DC in the last ST. Turn (20 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (26 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 4 (32 DC, 1 CH SP)
CH 4 (Counts as DC, CH 1). DC in the same ST. [CH 1, SK 1, DC in the next ST]. Repeat until 1 ST remains before the CH 1 SP of the previous row. Work (CH 1, DC, CH 2, DC, CH 1) in the CH 1 SP. SK the first DC, [DC in the next ST, CH 1, SK 1] repeat until the last ST. Work (DC, CH 1, DC). Turn (20 DC, 20 CH SP)
CH 4 (Counts as DC, CH 1). Then work (DC, CH 1, DC) in the first CH ST SP of the previous row. [CH 1, SK the DC, DC in the next CH ST SP]. Repeat until the previous row (CH 1, DC, CH 2, DC, CH 1). [DC in the next CH 1 SP, CH 1 SK the DC]. Repeat until the last CH 1 SP and work (DC, CH 1, DC, CH 1). DC in the last ST. (24 DC, 24 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (28 DC, 28 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (32 DC, 32 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (36 DC, 36 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (74 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (80 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (86 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (92 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (98 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 6 (54 DC, 54 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (58 DC, 58 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (62 DC, 62 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (66 DC, 66 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (70 DC, 70 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (144 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (150 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (156 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (162 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (168 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 6 (88 DC, 88 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (92 DC, 92 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (96 DC, 96 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (100 DC, 100 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (104 DC, 104 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (212 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (218 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (224 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (230 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (236 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 6 (122 DC, 122 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (126 DC, 126 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (130 DC, 130 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (134 DC, 134 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (138 DC, 138 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (280 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (286 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (292 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (298 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (304 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 6 (156 DC, 156 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (160 DC, 160 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (164 DC, 164 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (168 DC, 168 CH SP)
Repeat row 7 (172 DC, 172 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (348 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (354 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (360 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (366 DC, 1 CH SP)
Repeat row 3 (372 DC, 1 CH SP)
I like to make sure that this fine yarn is weaved through quite well; therefore, I use a 12–16-inch tail to weave in. Sometimes, I will also make a knot just to make sure it is secure.
Video Tutorials of this Crochet Pattern
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