I’m thrilled to introduce the Granny Square Daisy Tote Bag, a delightful blend of retro charm and modern functionality. This pattern brings together the timeless beauty of daisy granny squares with the practicality of a bucket bag design, creating a versatile accessory that’s perfect for any occasion.
Using vibrant colors and whimsical patterns of yesteryears, the Granny Square Daisy Tote is not just a crochet bag; it’s a statement piece. Whether you’re heading to the farmer’s market, a picnic in the park, or simply need a stylish way to carry your essentials, this tote has got you covered. The cheerful daisy motifs add a touch of vintage flair, while the sturdy construction ensures it can hold all your daily necessities.
This pattern is suitable for intermediate crocheters who are familiar with basic stitches and granny square construction. However, if you’re a beginner crocheter eager to learn, don’t be discouraged!
The step-by-step instructions and detailed photos will guide you through each stage of the process, making it an enjoyable project for all skill levels.
Just Eight Retro Daisy Granny Squares For this Tote
This pattern uses just 8 granny squares joined together to make this crochet tote bucket bag style.
After crocheting the squares, two are joined together to make a rectangle. This is repeated with the remaining 6 squares to make four rectangles total.
When all the rectangles are complete, they are laid out in a fan shape and joined together on the side seams. Crochet the strap using single crochet stitches. Weave in the yarn ends and your one-of-a-kind beautiful bag is ready for use.
Tips for Selecting Yarn
I recommend three yarn colors for this pattern. They can be coordinated colors or bright and contrasting yarn colors. This pattern is perfect for using up yarn scraps.
For a dainty and defined daisy pattern, a worsted weight yarn works best. These weights provide good stitch definition without being too bulky. Choose bright, contrasting color combination for the background, daisy petals and centers to make the design pop. Great for using up yarn scraps in different shades. Smooth yarns will show off the details of your stitches more clearly than textured or novelty yarns.
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Directions: Granny Square Daisy Tote Crochet Pattern
Skill Level
Intermediate
Gauge
17 stitches and 7 rows of double crochet every 4 inches.
Size
When laid flat this bag measures 17 inches across and 9 inches deep when measured from the middle to the bottom.
Materials
Yarn. I used three different colors of Caron Simply Soft yarn for each daisy granny square. Plan on about 150 yards of yarn for each square.
Refer to the photo to see how I alternated these three colors for the background and color of the petals: Gold, Autumn Red, and Pumpkin. For the color of the daisy center I used Dark Sage. On two of the squares in the center, I tried a variegated yarn scrap.
If you are not able to find this yarn locally, you can order it online from Yarnspirations through the link on the savings page.
Crochet Hook Size I, 5.5 mm hook.
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
¾” Button
Thread
Needle
Abbreviations
CH = Chain
DC = Double Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
SC = Single Crochet
SK = Skip
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SP = Space
ST = Stitch
STs = Stitches
YO = Yarn Over
[ ] = Repeat Between
Pattern Notes
Written in US Terms.
This bag is constructed of 8 granny squares that are seamed together
The granny square pattern is worked in the round. Then the squares are joined into four rectangles. Sew the rectangles together, then finally crochet a handle to the top of the bag.
When making the daisy granny square, leave a 6-10 inch yarn tail on when cutting the yarn off. This gives me plenty of yarn length to weave in.
Rounds 1 and 2 make up the center of the flower. Round 3 begins the flower petals. The background color starts with round 4.
You can adjust the length of the strap based on where you want the bag to hang by increasing or decreasing the rows.
Links for Video Tutorials for making the retro granny square and joining squares using the invisible join are located below the written pattern.
Begin: Make 8 Granny Squares in various colors
Make a Magic Circle. Sometimes it is called a magic loop or magic ring. Alternatively, you can also work a CH 4 and SL ST back into the first CH ST to make a circle.
Round 1
Continue using the same yarn.
CH 1 (Doesn’t count as a ST). Work 8 SC inside the magic circle. Pull the yarn tail to close the circle. Make a SL ST into the first SC to close the circle. (8 SC).
How to work the single crochet inside the magic loop. Insert the hook into the circle and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. (repeat this 7 more times).
Round 2
Use the same yarn that you did in round 1.
CH 3 (Counts as the first DC of the round). Make one more DC into the first ST. Work 2 DC into every ST around. Make a SL ST into the top of the CH 3. (16 DC including the initial CH 3).
Fasten off the yarn. Cut the yarn leaving 6-10 inches. Pull the yarn tail through the last loop. You can take a moment to weave in your yarn ends now or wait until you are done with the granny square to weave in all six of the yarn ends at once.
Round 3
Add a new yarn color. Pull the yarn into any one of the stitches in the previous round. Tie a knot.
Insert the hook into the loop. YO and pull up a loop and CH 3. (Counts as the first DC of the round). Make 2 more DC into the same ST. [CH 1, SK the next ST. Work 3 DC into the next ST]. Repeat between [ ] all the way around. End with a CH 1, SK 1, SL ST into the top of the CH 3. (At the end of the round, there will be 8 clusters of 3 DC).
At the end of this round do not fasten off the yarn. Just pull the loop larger so it doesn’t slip out. You can also use a stitch marker to hole the yarn in place while you work on the next round.
Round 4
Add a new yarn color. Pull the yarn into any one of the stitches of round 2 that we skipped in the previous round. Tie a knot.
For this round, as you work, push the stitches for round 3 away from your work a bit so they are out of the way. The stitches for this round 4 will be worked in front of round 3 stitches and into round 2 stitches.
Insert the hook in the stitch and CH 3. (Counts as the first DC of the round). CH 4, SK over to the next SK ST of round 2 and work a DC. [CH 4, SK over to the next SK ST of round 2 and work a DC]. Repeat between [ ] all the way around. At the end of the round work a SL ST into the top of the CH 3. (You should have 8 DC stitches in this round).
At the end of this round do not fasten off the yarn. Just pull the loop larger so it doesn’t slip out.
Round 5
Switch back to the yarn color from round 3.
Insert hook through the CH spaces of round 4 and pull the loop from round 3 to the front side. CH 3. (Counts as the first DC of the round). Work 2 DC into the next ST in the round 3 STs. Keep the round 4 CH STs pushed toward the back of your work and out of the way. Work 1 DC in the last ST of the cluster. [CH 2. Skip the DC from round 4 and work 1 DC in the next ST, 2 DC in the next ST, and 1 DC in the next ST]. Repeat around between [ ]. End with CH 2 and SL ST into the top of the CH 3. (At the end of the round, there will be 8 clusters of 4 DC).
At the end of this round do not fasten off the yarn. Just pull the loop larger so it doesn’t slip out.
Round 6
Switch back to the yarn color from round 4. Pull the loop to the front in one of the CH 1 SPs.
CH 3 (Counts as the first DC of the round). Make one more DC into the first ST. [CH 5, SK the 4 DC and work into the DC ST from round 4. Work 2 DC]. Repeat round between [ ] end with CH 5 and SL ST into the top of the CH 3. (You should have 16 DC stitches in this round).
Round 7
Switch back to the yarn color from round 5. Pull the loop to the front in one of the CH 5 SPs.
Insert the hook through the CH spaces of round 6 and pull the loop from round 5 to the front side. CH 3. (Counts as the first DC of the round). Work 2 DC into the next ST in the round 5 STs. Keep the round 6 CH STs pushed toward the back of your work and out of the way. Work 1 DC in the next 2 STs of the cluster. [CH 2. Skip the 2 DC from round 6 and work 1 DC in the next ST, 2 DC in the next ST, and 1 DC in the next 2 STs]. Repeat around between [ ]. End with CH 2 and SL ST into the top of the CH 3. (At the end of the round, there will be 8 clusters of 5 DC).
Round 8
Continue working with the same yarn. (This round creates the top of the flower petal).
CH 1 (Does not count as a ST). Work SC into the first ST. SK 1 DC ST. work 5 DC into the next ST (should be the middle DC ST). SK 1 DC ST, SC into the next ST. [CH 2. SK the CH 2 of round 7. Work 1 SC into the first ST of the next DC cluster. SK 1 ST, work 5 DC into the next ST, SK 1 ST, work 1 SC into the last ST of the DC cluster]. Repeat between [ ] around. End with a CH 2 and SL ST into the SC ST. (At the end of the round, you should have 8 sections of a SC, 5DC, SC cluster).
Fasten off the yarn. Cut the yarn leaving 6-10 inches. Pull the yarn tail through the last loop.
Round 9
Switch back to the yarn color from round 7. Pull the yarn to the front.
Insert the hook through the CH spaces of round 6 and pull the loop from round 5 to the front side. CH 3. (Counts as the first DC of the round). 2 DC in the next ST in round 7.
Next, flip the top of the flower petal from round 8 down and work 5 DC into the CH SP from round 7 that is behind the flower petal now. Flip the flower petal back up. Working in front of the stitches of round 8, work 1 DC in the first DC ST and 2 DC in the next DC ST. [Flip the flower petal down and work 5 DC in the CH SP. Flip the flower petal back up and work 1 DC in the first ST and 2 DC in the next ST]. Repeat around between [ ] end with a SL ST into the top of the CH 3. (At the end of this round, you should have 8 sections between the flower petals of 3 DC and 8 sections behind the flower petals of 5 DC).
Round 10
This is the first round to turn the circle into a square. CH 1 (Does not count as a ST). Work a SC into the first ST. Work a SC into the next 5 STs. Work a HDC in the next ST. Work a DC into the next ST.
The next stitch becomes the first corner. Work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC) all in the same ST. DC in the next ST, HDC in the next ST. Work SC into the next 11 STs. HDC in the next ST, DC in the next ST. The next ST becomes the second corner. Work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC) all in the same ST.
DC in the next ST, HDC in the next ST. Work SC into the next 11 STs. HDC in the next ST, DC in the next ST. The next ST becomes the third corner. Work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC) all in the same ST.
DC in the next ST, HDC in the next ST. Work SC into the next 11 STs. HDC in the next ST, DC in the next ST. The next ST becomes the fourth corner. Work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC) all in the same ST.
DC in the next ST, HDC in the next ST. Work SC into the last 5 STs. End with a SL ST into the first SC.
Round 11
Continue using the same yarn.
CH 1 (Does not count as a ST). Work a HDC into the first ST and next 9 STS. In the corner CH 2 SP work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC). (First corner).
Work a HDC into the next 19 STs. In the corner CH 2 SP work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC). (Second corner).
Work a HDC into the next 19 STs. In the corner CH 2 SP work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC). (Third corner).
Work a HDC into the next 19 STs. In the corner CH 2 SP work (2 DC, CH 2, 2DC). (Fourth corner).
Finish the last row with a HDC in the next 9 STs. End with a SL ST into the first ST.
Fasten off the yarn. Cut the yarn leaving 6-10 inches. Pull the yarn tail through the last loop.
Finishing
Use the tapestry needle to weave in the yarn tails on the back side of the work. I like to weave back and forth 3 to 5 times. Cut off the excess yarn.
Continue this process to make 8 Retro Daisy Granny Squares.
Assembling your bag
For a flat seam, use the invisible join to seam the 8 granny squares together. There is a video tutorial showing this below the written pattern.
Start by joining two of the granny squares to form a rectangle. To do this, hold the squares with the wrong sides together aligning the stitches. Use an extra-long piece of yarn strands to join them. After you have finished joining these two squares, don’t cut off the yarn. It will be used in the next step.
Repeat joining two squares together until you have 4 rectangles.
Layout the rectangles as indicated in the diagram. Begin seaming the rectangles together. I found it was easier to join where the bottom squares met first. Then I seamed the rest of the rectangle together. Note: When joining, you will notice one side is longer than the other. Not to worry, it is supposed to be. Just make sure that you align the stitches with the granny squares and sew together with the wrong sides together for a nice flat seam.
Finishing
Use the tapestry needle to weave in the yarn tails on the back side of the work. I like to weave back and forth 3 to 5 times. Cut off the excess yarn.
Crocheting the Handle on the Boho Tote Bag
Lay the bag flat so it is easier to tell where the sides of the bag are. The sides will be longer than the middle.
Begin
I used the Gold yarn.
Pull up a yarn loop on one of the in one of the corners. CH 1 (Does not count as a ST). Work a SC in the first ST and the next 5 STs across the side seam to the next corner. Turn
Rows 2 through 92
CH 1 (Does not count as a ST). SC in the first ST and each ST across. Turn
Row 93
In this row, you will be joining the strap to the other side of the bag. Make sure not to twist the strap.
CH 1 (Does not count as a ST). Insert the hook in the corner ST on the other side of the bag, YO and work a SC. Repeat this process for the next 5 STs.
Finishing
Use the tapestry needle to weave in the yarn tails on the back side of the work. Cut off the excess yarn.
Sewing the Button (optional)
If desired, sew in a ¾” button to the inside. This way, you can use the corner CH 2 SP in the middle as a buttonhole to close the top of the bag.
Use the thread and needle to sew the button on the bag. I like to insert the thread in the needle, bring the thread ends together and make a knot. This creates a nice double thickness thread, and the knot helps hold the thread in place without slipping through the yarn.
Pull the thread almost through. Insert the needle back through the yarn from the outside to the inside and through the loop of the thread. Then pull snug. This helps secure the thread in place. Now you are ready to sew through the buttonholes going back and forth through the yarn. Do this a few times for each hole. Knot the thread and cut off the excess thread.
Your Granny Square Tote Bag is ready to use.
Granny Square Daisy Tote Bag Video Tutorials
On the YouTube Channel, you can find a video tutorial for the Retro Daisy Granny Square and joining the squares using the invisible join stitch.
Invisible Join video tutorial:
We hope you enjoyed this free pattern. We have other free crochet patterns for you to explore and make.
You can find Victoria crocheting, quilting, and creating recipes. She has cooked in restaurants for over 20 years, including many larger parties. She learned to crochet when she was just 11 years old and has been crocheting ever since; over 50 years now. Over 40 years ago, she loved her first class in sewing and continues to hone her skills in quilting. Many have enjoyed the handmade gifts over the years. In her professional career, she has worked in management in a wide variety of businesses including higher education as a dean of a division. All the while attending college part-time to achieve her doctorate in higher education with an emphasis in e-learning.